Cold, temperature changes, water and dirt – such conditions for a car are sometimes even worse than severe frosts. The expert shared the secrets of how to avoid trouble.
Body
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One of the most popular special stages in the past was anti-corrosion treatment of bodies. It is understandable – the factory corrosion protection was weak (the bodies rusted even in summer). And the cars changed more often.
The bodies that are most resistant to corrosion are Volvo, Audi, BMW, Mercedes, and also Skoda of recent years. And the most unstable are the UAZ, as well as the UzDaewoo and some of the “Chinese” of the past years of production. All other cars are in the middle of the “table of ranks”.
All types of anti-corrosion treatment of bodies can be divided into two groups, conditionally called Canadian and European. In the first case, the hidden cavities of the car are filled with penetrating compounds – this is quite fast and relatively inexpensive.
In the second, the bottom of the car and wheel arches are additionally covered with bituminous compounds. Such processing takes from 10 hours to a day and costs the client an order of magnitude more expensive.
In the latter case, protection lasts for 5-7 years. The main brands of anti-corrosion preparations are Noxudol (aka Mercasol), Dinitrol, Waxoil, Tectyl (it is practically not used in our country anymore), Prim (domestic, very good).
To protect the paintwork, polishes, wax and other materials are used that at least briefly protect the body from the harmful effects of external factors.
The anti-corrosion treatment service has a second wind today.The anti-corrosion treatment service has a second wind today.
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Glasses and wipers
Glasses, especially windshields, are primarily affected by oncoming “meteor” streams – these are grains of sand, ice, pebbles, etc. And it is impossible to protect yourself from them.
Wipers are consumables. But this is not a reason to kill them on purpose, using instead of a scraper or sweeping brush.Wipers are consumables. But this is not a reason to kill them on purpose, using instead of a scraper or sweeping brush.
Problems are added by the owner of the car himself, who, for example, begins to remove frozen ice by any means at hand. A soft plastic scraper, alcohol-containing preparations, a warm heating pad and, of course, a standard “stove” can clear the glass of ice.
Only the air flow on the ice glass must be directed immediately after starting the engine. Otherwise, the glass may break due to a sharp temperature drop.
Wipers also suffer if they try to scrape ice from the glass or (without washer supply) dried dirt.
Chassis
Particular attention to rubber protective covers on drives and hinges. Dirt with reagents, entering through a torn anther, will quickly disable the assembly.
Although sometimes it is possible to confine ourselves to a thorough cleaning of the inside of the assembly, updating the lubricant and installing a new anther.
In practice, when a damaged anther is found, the entire assembly is usually changed.In practice, when a damaged anther is found, the entire assembly is usually changed.
Engine
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To prolong his life, in the cold it must be warmed up (at least not for long). The bottom of the piston warms up quite quickly, but the groove area remains cold. After all, it comes into contact with the cylinder wall, which at first is slightly warmer than the coolant.
There are large temperature differences, and with them – exorbitant stresses in the metal. It is worth loading a cold engine a little, trying, for example, to get out of a snowdrift – and you can get into expensive repairs.
Therefore, it makes sense to rumble on the spot for a minute or two. Moreover, at this time you have to clean the snow or drive the purpose of the trip into the navigator. And then you can slowly get under way, forgetting for a while about sharp accelerations.
So the engine warms up faster than in the parking lot.
mechanical box
It also has oil that thickens in the cold. Warming up the mechanics is easy: start the engine and wait. In a manual transmission, most of the parts rotate, dispersing the oil even when the car is parked (of course, if the clutch pedal is not depressed).
Roughly the same thing happens in a robotic gearbox.
Cold work is not as dangerous for mechanics as it is for an automatic machine. It takes 5-10 minutes (depending on the temperature overboard) of parking with the engine on for the oil to warm up and the gears to turn on without undue effort.
Automatic
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The thickened working fluid cannot create the necessary pressure to compress the clutch packs, and therefore they begin to slip and wear out faster. For the same reason, the torque converter may suffer.
So, it is advisable to warm up the machine before the trip. But the problem is that the classic machine does not heat up while parked with the engine running. You need to select mode D or R, holding the car with the brake (or rest the wheels against the curb).
But the main heating of the automatic transmission occurs when the car is moving. Therefore, it is better to overcome the first kilometers without sudden acceleration.
Expert comment
Viktor Elchaninov, director of the CardanBalance branch in VoronezhViktor Elchaninov, director of the CardanBalance branch in Voronezh
Program
To protect the cardan from breakage, the car in the cold season needs to be warmed up before the trip. And it is desirable to drive the first kilometers at medium speed so that all bearings and crosses naturally receive lubrication. And it was evenly distributed along the grooves. The resource of the cardan shaft with such actions increases by several years.
Grinding or crunching of metal coming from the cross, its whistling or hum during the start of movement, as well as strong vibration during acceleration above 60 km / h are signs that the cardan needs to be inspected and serviced. Cardan lubrication (this operation is often called injection) must be carried out every 15,000 km.
Photo: AGN “Moscow” and “Behind the wheel” How not to kill the car in the offseason: 7 vulnerabilities
Cold, temperature changes, water and dirt – such conditions for a car are sometimes even worse than severe frosts. The expert shared the secrets of how to avoid trouble.
How not to kill the car in the offseason: 7 vulnerabilities
